MISTER MORT

Flannel Suit & Fedora at The Paris Flea Market

t evolved from a style of coat known as the "Norfolk jacket", whose belt extended all the way around to the front. Around World War I(?), military jackets began to appear with half belts in the back. As WWI ended, manufacturers of civilian clothing began to offer sporty suits with belted-back jackets. 

Here in the U.S.A., the style was popular throughout the 1920s and most of the '30s. By 1940, however, the belted back was disappearing from suits and sportcoats. It lasted for a while longer on gabardine "Hollywood" ("Ricky") jackets, then pretty much disappeared until the early '70s, when it popped up again on polyester sportcoats and suits. (Remember those nasty polyester "Angel's Flight" suits made by Levi Strauss?)

The belted-back jacket or suit was considered sporty attire. It could be worn to work by certain professionals (such as reporters and theatrical agents) and not by others (such as bankers and lawyers).

London Part I

I wish i could say her dad had a tie on and it was tucked into his trousers, but he was probably wearing bootcut jeans with puma trainers and a skinnyminny 80's rocker tie tied loosely around his neck like a necklace as so many other european men are these days. but these school kids were dressed so well. With all these American Apparel stores poping up, and haberdasheries closing, where will the british dandies be shopping?

This fella manages one of the Paul Smith shops

Thought this woman was so on point with her wide trousers, large brimmed fedora and leather jacket ! (she doesn't work in fashion)

Just a butcher working in his straw hat

Craft L.A. Just a great shop

I was pretty mad when my friend Peter told me he was moving to LA, after him pleading with me to come out there, I finally paid a visit and glad I did. All the years of us chatting about Balenciaga, Alden and Turnbull are finally paying off... When they broke down the walls, they found this really old graffiti on the bricks. Im glad they left it exposed like they did. Its not in your face- you sorta have to almost look for it.. The shop has an incredible selection of vintage shoes, boots and outerwear to compliment the new pieces by Left Field, Alden, Sugar Cane and soon to come shirts by MISTER MORT. Love a short sleeve sweatshirt, this vintage joint is no exception ! PLease click on this here military shirt jacket and see enlarged Run by Peter, his Lady Rosa and vintage expert Bill;is this truly magnificent shop. Really a comfortable shopping atmosphere, in fact, you only get spoken to if you so desire, otherwise help yourself! No salesman following you from item to item lecturing you about the designer and all that bullshit. Just quality garments and shoes and good conversation. To borrow from a recent write-up on hyrcollective.com - http://www.hyrcollective.com/daily-blog/2009/05/craft-la/ The space is really nice and open, clean with a emphasis on reused wood and steel for the fixtures and quality on the clothing. Michael Williams wrote a great piece on Craft for GQ's blog as well http://men.style.com/gq/blogs/gqeditors/2009/05/go-here-craft-los-angeles-ca.html

Some they got, some got away..

This salmon colored anorak from WWII surprisingly wasn't snatched up by anyone ! This is one of the best Brooks Brothers shirts I have ever seen. I already own a few variations of this shirt by them, but thats not why I didnt buy it. I was beaten to it by the boys who were shopping for Ralph Lauren inspiration. I felt better when i saw that it was priced at $145. To make it worse, it was 14.5 (my size) and if all goes as it should, will be seen in a Rugby store near you. We can only hope and pray it wont be embroidered with skulls and flags all over it. These dealers make it way too easy, I cant blame these designers for not bothering to really dig, wether it be on ebay or our nations thrift shops. And by thrift shops, I dont mean WCGA or Stock.. I really liked the pockets on this guys pants and sweatshirt. Interesting how its not a full zip. Cant tell whats going on with the bottom of his pants, were they cut short? gathered? dont know, but they look good! His bag was super cool as well, but this is all you're getting. I like this shot of jewelry designer Phillip Crangi "shopping" in his green cuffed pants and green rod lavers Dude from 45 RPM shoping.. I love sweatpants, I dont own a pair but have always wanted a pair. I really like how he paired them with rust New Balance, a flannel shirt and down vest ! Here with a trophy purchase ! I was watching forever to see who would become the lucky owner of this stripe painted oar. Not sure if you can tell from this photo, but this man here is in all classics- barracuda drizzler, smedley knit, oxford shirt, dungarees and moccasins. I love a chamois shirt. Have never seen an orange one. Great way to layer in the winter and I find they especially come in handy in the Spring time. Check out his monocle. And as if the orange isnt enough, Check out this turquoise one. I saw this fella carrying this here horse and asked if I could photograph it, He paid $400 and was "told" it was Pendleton. I didnt see a label anywhere, there was a tag on its tush, didnt say Pendleton or any company, just fabric contents and made in taiwan i believe. I hope it was at least made using Pendleton fabric but Ill never be sure.. Cool piece none the less.some more color out there in the fields. Below are some personal scores

Sean in wool challis

I've run into Sean on numerous occasions, always impeccably dressed. Here while grocery shopping I tried capturing his double breasted wool vest with hand pick stitching, wool challis tie and scarf, both with equestrian themes. I wish the pictures showed their detail better. Please click on the images and perhaps you can make it out.. Sean takes the award for best dressed at RL FW 09.