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February 08, 2010


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I gotta say...after just returning from London and spending plenty of time at Huntsman, Henry Poole, and Norton & Sons on The Row...this guy just comes off as "clownish". Don't mess with what works. There's too much going on here with pattern, color, and fit. It comes off as contrived and affected.

the fact that vest is so small on him is really distracting.

I love how the guy mixes color and patterns. I don't love how tight that waistcoat is.

Before every Tom, Dick and Harry learned what "bespoke" meant, this fellow was his own version of the real thing: ever natty, stylish without rigour, and unwaveringly idiosyncratic in his persona. Although I've never had the pleasure of shaking his hand, I've seen this chap around town for years and years, having been at more than a few of the same parties and openings together. Save for evening, he's often been the only other fellow in a bow-tie. Often, he's ridden to and from said events on his bicycle (and long before the green movement returned everyone to two wheels). He's almost never hatless, except inside, of course. In summer, a boater is apt to cover his pate. He's jaunty in his way, and I appreciate every sighting of him because he embodies what I see too little of in this town anymore: true personal style. He also upholds that African-American gentleman's sartorial tradition of putting--if I may say so metaphorically--a bit of extra topspin on that serve: Etonian with bling, so to speak. And it's a delicious contrast to humdrum preppy predictability. To wit: the old-school silhouette that sees itself barraged by accessories. He's urbane and he doesn't give a fig about doing it by the book, for he's written his own. But not in some comical guise a la Puff Daddy's chauffeur-turned-"style" expert (that Bentley so-and-so, whatever his name is). This gent's no rapper. The elements of this particular occasion delight me because of their imperfection: he wears pleated trousers, which I abhor, but he does so smashingly because they belong to an old two-piece suit to which he's added a too-tight waistcoat in order to warrant the bow-tie. He's added a comely array of patterns (which one either understands how to wear, or doesn't) and the chesterfield, any of which recede the eye's attention from some detail of the ensemble one might not like. The pocket square in his topcoat is just a bit of added flourish, a kind of plumage, along with the silk scarf draped carelessly. The suede monk-straps speak to utility (he rides a bike). The heraldic or club pin is a class signifier that I happen to champion. It says: some of us need to remind the pack that we don't run with them. Hats off to that!

I don't see any one part that's offending here and he clearly has his own style...its just when all things are thrown together...it can look distracting. Believe me, not enough people wear hats (just picked up my fourth at Locke) and I give him credit for all the effort. But this just looks like that...effort. Sorry...Mort told me to tell it it how it is when he told me about this blog. You know what the say about opinions...

The Rules of Men's Dressing. I think it is interesting how each of us adopt some of the "Rules". I volunteer the grade of C+. The detail that I caught is the use of the braces and belt together. I do applaude him choosing to dress as a gentleman in this day and time. It is too easy to just throw something on and go out. I am guilty of that myself. I agree on the vest being too tight. Not wearing something that tight, the look would have been better.

Belt AND braces? Are your pants falling down really that much of a concern? Seriously though, not one article of clothing he is wearing fits appropriately. "Bespoke" clothing that doesn't fit is not really that "ill". The current "trend" of dressing like Cosmo Kramer meets Sitting Bull is really not the definition of "fire" kids. Anyway this guy, he looks like Bozo the Clown. D+.

great outfit...

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